A weekend in Karystos in Southern Evia is a weekend of endless blue.
Karystos, or Karistos (Κάρυστος), is easily accessible from Athens but remote from the rest of Evia as it is located at the edge of the Euboic Gulf. It is the ideal destination for an unforgettable weekend. The journey from the opposite side of Attica takes just 45 minutes to an hour (with the ferry). A short trip is, however, enough to take you to a beautiful maritime city with a welcoming and calm atmosphere that wins you over from the first moment. Karystos is a destination surrounded by the sea and the blue sky, full of intense and unforgettable images.
From Othonopolis to Karystos
Karystos, whose history dates back thousands of years, flourished under the Venetian occupation. It was crucial to Ottoman strategy as a supply base for the fleet and an Aegean centre of control. Because of this, the Ottomans fought desperately to hold onto Karystos, which they finally lost to Greece in 1833. It finally assumed its present form during King Otto’s rule.
Wide streets and squares, designed according to a plan and built by the Bavarian engineer Mirbach under the direction of King Otto, characterise Karystos’ extensive and well-kept landscape. This town was given the name “Othonopolis” in 1848 in remembrance of Otto (Othon in Greek). However, after Otto’s expulsion from Greece, the town was named Karystos again in 1862. It is among the first Greek cities to have an academic hub complete with a library, museum, and lecture hall.
A walk in the town
A walk around the city could start from the beautiful building of the Town Hall. The building is an excellent example of neoclassical architecture from the 19th century. In fact, by the decision of the Minister of Culture in 1979, it was classified as a work of art that needs special protection.
The bust of Ioannis Kotsikas is displayed in the building’s atrium. He was a wealthy local merchant, and the Town Hall was constructed thanks to his donation. Kotsika Street opens up in front of you as you exit the building and ends at Amalias Square, near the port. Simultaneously, the Agios Nikolaos church dominates the horizon on the left.
During the settlement of Othonopolis, the construction of a large metropolitan church was foreseen, which finally became operational in 1850. At the request of the residents of the city, the church was dedicated to Agios Nikolaos (patron of sailors). They want to symbolise the city’s close relationship with the sea and the large number of residents of the area who worked as sailors. The church is really impressive with its pure white colour and intense blue domes. It gives a typical island atmosphere to the skyline of the city.
The part of the city from the Town Hall to the port has no special attractions, but the houses of the 19th and early 20th centuries in the wide streets are enough to be worth a tour. Some are well-kept, others abandoned, and others renovated preserve the city’s noble atmosphere. However, contemporary interventions are numerous and, in many cases, alter the character and atmosphere of the city. As a result, these constructions prevent Karystos from maintaining the character of a traditional settlement.
The port of Karystos
The road along the port is the one that forms the heart of the city. This is where the social life of the city takes place. The old cafes and ouzeri mingle with modern restaurants and bars, which are full at all hours of the day. In the morning, the tables are occupied by the older locals, and as the day progresses, the average age of the customers gradually drops.
In the centre of the port road is Amalias Square, where the Heroon monument is located. Around it, there are several beautiful buildings that house mostly cafes. At the eastern end of the road is Bourtzi, the Venetian fortress and guardian of the port. And of course, at the point where the quay begins, the statue of the sailor of Karystos is staring proudly at the sea.
The Archaeological Museum of Karystos
Despite having just two halls, the Archaeological Museum of Karystos is a significant and fascinating site. Its permanent collection includes artefacts from the region of Styra and Drakospita as well as ancient Karystia, which was defined as the borders of the city-state of Karystos and its territory in classical times. The displays cover the Prehistoric to Roman periods in chronological order.
Ano Aetos
Just 3 kilometres from the centre of Karystos, the village of Ano Aetos (Άνω Αετός) is an easy excursion. In the centre of the settlement, the beautiful basilica-style church of Theotokos impresses with its interior decoration and the age-old olive trees in its courtyard. A courtyard from which the view of Karystos takes your breath away. When leaving, don’t forget to quench your thirst at the spring that is next to the church. Its water has, for hundreds of years, provided water to the surrounding villages.
Castelo Rosso
In an impressive location at the foot of the Ochi mountain, the Kokkinokastro (Κοκκινόκαστρο), or Castelo Rosso, took its name from the red local stones from which it was constructed. The castle is said to have been built by the Lombard house of Dale Carceri after 1205, as the lord’s residence and administrative centre of southern Evia. A Byzantine castle from the 11th century previously existed on the site. The castle is open to the public, and if inside many of the buildings are demolished, its exterior is impressive. The best time to visit it is at sunset, when the impressive view of the entire South Euboic Gulf is uniquely combined with the red-orange colours of the sunset.
Platanistos
Platanistos (Πλατανιστός), 22 kilometres from Karystos, is the entrance to the villages of Cavo D’oro / Cape Kafireas. The windswept cape of Southern Evia, surrounded by strong winds, impresses the visitor with the wild beauty of its landscape. Wild cliffs, small rivers, waterfalls, wide beaches with deep blue water, and scattered small settlements compose the image of an isolated but at the same time impressive Greece.
Before going on to the remainder of the cape, stop at the high waterfall and road bridge (also called Lovers’ Bridge) at the village entry for a refreshing break beneath the plane trees.
Karystos’ Beaches
Karystos is unquestionably a summer destination as well, because of its many top-notch beaches. The completely organised beaches of Psili Ammos (Ψιλή Άμμoς) and Gallida (Γαλλίδα) are located in the city, east and west of the port. With their broad sandy beaches and crystal-clear blue waves, Agia Paraskevi (Αγία Παρασκευή), Kavos (Κάβος), and Bouros (Μπούρος) stand out among the several beaches that stretch towards Cavo D’oro (all have organised sections). In addition to being a stunning beach, Potami (Ποτάμι), near Platanistos, is home to an exceptionally beautiful natural setting. Its deep waters and large waves are obviously not for everyone. Still, the views of the river flowing into the ocean and the isolated hillsides surrounding it would be enough to make a trip there. [Photo at the top]
Kourkoubines and other gastronomic delights
Like all of Evia, Karystos has a rich gastronomic history that is well worth exploring. The area of Karystos, due to its morphology, produces excellent livestock products. In the stores of the city, you will find excellent local meats and cheeses. Also, a local product that you should try is kourkoubines. It is a simple pasta made with flour, served with fresh butter and a dollop of cheese. A sort of fried pie called tiganopsomo is also worth tasting; it’s a staple of all of Evia.
A bit outside of the city, Zouras Tavern (Ζoύρας) is the best place to sample local meats and other traditional dishes. For classic Greek cuisine, the finest place to go is the restaurant Cavo D’oro, which is located in the centre of town on a charming tiny street (the local goat cooked in lemon sauce is wonderful). Last but not least, Philippas (Φίλιππας), a classic ouzeri of the port, is the greatest option for great fish dishes while socialising with the city’s older residents.
But for something really different, you should visit Tavern Mouries (Μoυριές) in the village of Paradisi (Παραδείσι). It is an excellent country tavern with a lovely setting. Its cuisine skilfully combines regional and contemporary flavours.
And finally, if you visit Karystos and you have to go to one place, this is Hovoli (Χόβολη). First of all, the place is beautiful and reminds of an old captain’s house. The hospitality and service are unique, while whatever you order is made and served with love. Whether for coffee, or a drink, but also for food, it is an excellent choice.
A promise to return
After spending a weekend at Karystos amid the endless blue of the Aegean, all you can think about is seizing the chance to go back as soon as possible. The journey back home becomes one of reminiscence, filled with sights, flavours, the sea, and the untamed beauty of Cavo D’oro.
How to travel to Karystos
There are three ways to travel to Karystos:
1. Traveling by car from Athens via Chalkida and Eretria. The approximately 200 kilometres may not seem like much, but the road after Chalkida, although interesting, is demanding.
2. Using the Agia Marina – Neo Styra ferry line (approx. 60 minutes) and driving another half hour from there. On this link, you can find the timetable of the ferries: neastyraferries.gr
3. Taking the ship from the port of Rafina to Marmari (approx. 60 minutes) and driving another 20 minutes to Karystos. On this link, you can find the timetable of the ships: in-karystos.gr
Where to stay in Karystos
Karystos has many accommodation solutions to cover all preferences and requirements. Three hotels that we singled out in the city with all the amenities are: Nerea Boutique Suites Karystos, Anastasia Hotel & Suites and Apollon Suites (on Psili Ammos beach). Finally, a excellent solution for staying in an apartment is John’s Apartments.
