After governing the Roman Empire for 20 years, Diocletian retired from public life and moved to a grand palace on the shores of the Adriatic Sea in a region known as Dalmatia. After many centuries, the breathtaking ruins of his palace are now the beating heart of the unforgettable town of Split in Croatia. Therefore, a walk in the historic centre of the city is like wandering in the palace of a Roman Emperor.
Split was a minor city until Diocletian’s palace was built, and the emperor came to retire here in 305 AD, ten years after construction began. Diocletian was probably a native of Salona, the Roman city of the region, and became emperor in 284 AD. The palace resembled a standard Roman military camp. Sleek walls encircled the 215-metre-long and 180-metre-wide space. The Temple of Jupiter dominated its centre, and it featured four principal gates: the Golden, Silver, Iron, and Brass Gates.
The palace served as a clerical office following the demise of Diocletian around 316 AD. However, in 615 AD, following the Avars’ devastation of Salona, the refugees took sanctuary in the palace’s structures. The emperor’s rooms were occupied by the wealthiest, while the towers and other outlying structures housed the impoverished.
Therefore, in a subsequent tour of the centre of Split, let’s highlight the most important places to admire. They will give you a complete picture of this unique attraction.
The afternoon is the ideal time for this kind of stroll as the buildings are bathed in the golden light of the sun.
People’s Square
This square is the most impressive in the old town. It is located right outside the palace buildings and in front of the Iron Gate. It was formed in its current form in the 15th century, when it became the commercial and administrative centre of the city. Around the square, the city’s aristocracy built impressive buildings. The Renaissance building of the Town Hall stands out among them. The famous clock tower is also located in the square. Actually, the Romans built the tower, and the clock was erected on its ruins.
Iron Gate
The Iron Gate marks the conclusion of the People’s Square’s eastern perimeter. It is the sole gate that has been used continuously up until today. Initially, the military used the gate to let Roman troops enter the complex. Later on, the Church of Our Lady of the Belfry’s Romanesque bell tower, occupied a portion of the passageway above the palace entrance. Finally, throughout the 20th century, a bazaar with small stores has been in operation adjacent to the gate buildings.
Peristyle
The palace’s main square and interior courtyard were the Peristyle. Here, the emperor was honoured as Jupiter’s living son and would appear to his citizens beneath the architrave. The people would either fall before him, their whole bodies on the ground, or they would approach him, kneeling and kissing the hem of his crimson cloak. As such, it served as the emperor’s meeting place with his people. There are relief embellishments and a towering, arched tympanum at the entrance to his private chambers. If you look closely, you may see layers associated with the various interventions that the Peristyle’s construction underwent over time.
The Peristyle is definitely the most visited area of the old city. Numerous guests lounge on the stairs surrounding them, savouring the distinct ambiance. This location has a distinct energy and enthrals guests with its timeless beauty.
Cathedral of St. Domnius
Originally the Diocletian Mausoleum, the Cathedral now stands dominantly close to the Peristyle. In the seventh century, they took out of the sarcophagus the emperor’s bones and replaced them with the relics of St. Domnius, transforming it into a Christian temple. St. Domnius was a bishop who martyred during Diocletian’s persecution of Christians in the area. The Cathedral is regarded as the oldest Catholic church in the world that has remained intact and has not undergone any more conversions. The striking bell tower and the choir are the sole new features. The bell tower that rises to dominate Split’s skyline provides a distinctive perspective of the whole city to those who climb all the stairs to the top.
Silver Gate
The Silver Gate, which was closed from the Middle Ages until 1952, is located very near the Cathedral and has less ornate ornamentation than the other gates. The remnants of the octagonal towers are on both sides of the gate, which makes it simple to visualise the elegance of the design and the power of the defence against the approaches from the north, east, and west. You find it difficult to control your emotions as you approach the palace and recall the wonder that visitors as well as locals experienced during Diocletian’s time when passing the gate.
Baptistry of St. John
The most sacred area of the palace was this little building, which appears to be wedged in between the other structures that surround the Peristyle today. The most plausible explanation is that it was a Temple of Jupiter that was converted to a Baptistry in the 6th century. Its interior now contains two sarcophagi that were used to bury mediaeval archbishops and a 13th-century improvised baptismal font made from 11th-century spolia. A sizable bronze statue of St. John the Baptist by 20th-century sculptor Ivan Mestrovic is also housed in the Baptistery. One of the presumably twelve sphinxes that Diocletian imported from Egypt as ornaments for his new palace is the headless sphinx that is currently lying in front of the temple.
Diocletian’s Cellars
You may reach the central hall of the Cellars of Diocletian, which now houses a number of tourist stores, by descending the short set of steps at one end of the Peristylium. Known variously as the ‘basements’ or the’substructions,’ the Cellars of Diocletian’s Palace are an underground network of passageways and halls beneath the southern part of the palace, which originally comprised the emperor’s private residence. By passing through the cellars, you access the Brass Gate, which is the palace’s sea entrance. This is where the striking Riva opens up in front of you.
Riva
The most stunning aspect of the city is, however, the well-known Riva waterfront promenade. The “Living Room of Split” gets its name from its fitting description, as it attracts hundreds of tourists and residents every day. In the middle of the city, between the Adriatic Sea and the city walls, lies a magnificent projection of palm trees. At the same time, the many popular eateries and cafes along its whole length preserve its vibrant atmosphere.
Brace Radic Square
In the southwest corner of the palace and a few metres from Riva, this mediaeval square is probably one of the most picturesque corners of the city. It is known to locals as “Fruit Market” (Vocni trg). The tall Marina Tower is the only evidence of the imposing castle built by the Venetians in the 15th century after they conquered Split. It is built on an octagonal plan and stands opposite the Baroque Milesi Palace.
A unique work of the reknown Croatian sculptor, Ivan Mestrovic, adorns the centre of the square. It depicts the writer and scholar Marko Marulic, who was the founder of literature in the Croatian language.
Prokurative
Republic Square, or Prokurative, is situated west of the Riva. It got its name from the arches on the neo-Renaissance structures that encircle the area on three sides. Midway through the 19th century, Antonio Bajamonti—one of the most well-known mayors in the city’s history—started the construction of the Prokurative. In order to demonstrate Split’s respect for Italian heritage, he designed a square that looked like Venice’s St. Mark’s Square. The square has long been a top venue for cultural events. Also, the presence of pubs and restaurants has increased locals’ interest in square.
Gastronomic Treasures
Split has one of the busiest and liveliest food scenes in Croatia. In the old town, modern eateries contend with classic taverns as ambitious chefs from different generations strive to make a name for themselves in the city. At Split, you may sample some of Croatia’s best cevapi, have exceptional fine dining experiences, and try delicious ice cream —possibly inspired by nearby Italy.
Kantun Paulina
The modern version of cevapi started in Belgrade and then expanded throughout the Balkans. In the latter part of the 20th century, it arrived in Croatia and quickly gained popularity. Cevapi in Croatia is a blend of three types of meat. Kantun Paulina (Matošića ul. 1) is a small place run by a family since 1969 and the most famous place for cevapi in Split. Famous among the locals, Kantun Paulina serves five classic cevapi in a bread roll with onions, kajmak (cream cheese), and ajvar (sauce with peppers).
Articok
In terms of recommendations for fine dining, Articok (Ul. bana Josipa Jelacica 3) is the best option. Since opening in 2016, Articok has become one of Split’s most popular dining spots by successfully pushing out competitors. The restaurant has a bohemian atmosphere, and during the summer, the experience is transferred to the roof of the building. Above all, though, the meal at Articok is truly something special. Its kitchen is definitely modern in terms of appearance and functionality but takes cues from Balkan and Croatian traditions.
Ela’s Gelateria
If we had to pick just one fantastic location among many in Split for ice cream, it would be Ela’s Gelateria Artigianale (Domaldova ul. 1a). They produce delicious ice cream with enough variety and high-quality ingredients. Although there is typically a huge queue outside, the service is prompt.
A unforgettable experience
Undoubtedly, visiting Split is an unforgettable experience. A walk in the centre of the historic city is a trip back in time to the palace of a Roman Emperor. In recent years, it has developed into a very popular tourist destination with a busy nightlife. However, it does not lose any of its glamour and historical significance. As the sun sets on the horizon of the Adriatic Sea, Split becomes even more magical, and the lights of Riva-like sirens invite visitors to lose themselves in the magic of the city.
