Once a maritime power, Genoa in Italy is certainly a destination worth discovering, and this is a guide to the historic centre of the famous port city.
Tourists frequently tend to ignore Genoa, although it is a unique destination. It combines fascinating modern additions with an eclectic architectural style and a strong maritime tradition. Furthermore, it is a city in constant communication with the Mediterranean, which it once ruled. Its many ethnicities and the port give it a distinct, nomad personality that is pleasantly blended with the most enduring Italian traditions.
At the same time, Genoa serves as the provincial capital of Liguria, a region of equal beauty, and as the entry point to the bustling Italian Riviera. Only a few kilometres separate the city centre from Portofino, the Cinque Terre, and San Remo, among other locations. And of course, as the centre of Liguria’s traditions, it is also a gourmet haven full of exceptional gastronomic gems.
The main attraction of any trip to Genoa is its Centro Storico (Historic Centre) and our guide’s purpose is to highlight the top sights and activities there.
Capital of a maritime power
The advent of the great ship-owning families in the 12th century marked the beginning of Genoa’s golden period. It was the time when the city emerged as a major maritime force in the Mediterranean. These aristocrats’ exploits dispersed the Genoese over the known globe. Simone Boccanegra was the first lifelong doge of Genoa, appointed in 1339. Following a sequence of incursions by the Milanese, French, and Spanish, Andrea Doria rammed through a new constitution in 1528. He established a biennial doges oligarchy consisting of both new and old noble merchants to oversee the city’s orderly governance. Additionally, he turned Genoa into a political satellite of Spain. Over the following two centuries, Genoa began to deteriorate and eventually lost its prominence as a major metropolis. Its port did not, however, lose its important position in the Italian economy.
We start our tour at Via Garibaldi and gradually discover all the top sights in the historic centre.
Via Garibaldi
All tours of Genoa’s historic centre have Via Garibaldi as a focal point. While walking here, the visitor is instantly transported to the 16th and 17th centuries, when the city was prosperous. The impressively tall facades of the mansions, which nearly block out the sun that tries to peek through the gaps between the buildings, leave an unforgettable impression. When Via Garibaldi was first constructed, it was known as La Strada Nuova in the 16th century. It was the city’s first foray outside of the old port.
The city’s wealthy families vied with one another to build the most ornate and extravagant palaces. Therefore, the buildings are remarkable in their majesty and interior and exterior design. Though only a few of the structures are accessible to the public, all of them are remarkably well preserved.
Part of the Genoa’s Strada Nuova Museums is housed in the largest building on the road, the Palazzo Doria-Tursi. The building’s entire main level was made public while five of its rooms are home to an exhibition of paintings from the eighteenth century. The trio of Strada Nuova Museums is completed by the structures known as Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Rosso. When combined, these museums house the city’s greatest collection of artwork.
These three palaces and the streets surrounding them became the Genoa’s ‘Le Strade Nuove and the system of the Palazzi dei Rolli World Heritage Site” on July 13, 2006.
From Via Garibaldi, we follow the narrow streets (caruggi) towards the old port and find ourselves in Piazza Banchi.
Piazza Banchi
The relatively small but extremely impressive Piazza Banchi was the commercial core of the city until the 18th century. It was an important hub for communication between the city and the port. Already in the Middle Ages, the square hosted numerous merchants, pawnbrokers, and coin exchangers from all parts of the then-known world with which Genoa had commercial transactions. The square owes its name to these early bankers who, in the 16th century, moved their services to Loggia de Mercanti, which occupies one side of the square.
In the centre of the square is the church of San Pietro (St. Peter), which was founded in the 9th century. After the reconstruction due to a fire that destroyed it in the 16th century, it was rebuilt on a high mound in order to host shops on the street level. This is how the church got its current impressive look. Piazza Banchi is a special place that will transport you without a second thought to the era that was teeming with life when the Genoese ships were returning from their long voyages.
Following Via Banchi from the square and turning left onto Via San Lorenzo bring us to Piazza San Lorenzo. Here the Cathedral of Genoa is the main attraction.
Cattedrale di San Lorenzo
The church of San Lorenzo (St. Lawrence) is the gem in the crown of a city full of magnificent and historic churches. Although it was built in the 9th century, over time, extensions in a variety of styles were added, giving it a unique character. Because of its safe location behind the walls, the church was chosen to serve as the city’s cathedral. Inside lies the chapel dedicated to San Giovanni Battista (St. John the Baptist), one of Genoa’s patron saints, along with San Lorenzo.
Museo del Tesoro (Treasure Museum) is also housed in the church. It displays priceless church artefacts that the Genoese brought back from the Holy Land during the Crusades. Among them are the 12th-century silver casket containing the supposed ashes of San Giovanni and the Sacro Catino, an Islamic glass vase from the9th century that was formerly believed to be the Holy Grail.
Continuing behind the cathedral, Piazza Matteotti stretches out and hosts two important monuments significant to the history of the city.
Palazzo Ducale
Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) is a magnificent building that was intended to highlight the greatness of Genoa. The building was originally erected during the Middle Ages but was expanded and acquired its present form in the 16th century. The adjacent Tower Palace of Alberto Fieschi is the original mediaeval core of the palace. The Tower was one of the symbols of the political power of the Republic. The tolls of its bell underlined the most solemn and tragic moments of the city. In the course of time, the Tower became a dungeon for political prisoners, intellectuals, conspirators, and anarchists until the first half of the 20th century.
The impressive facade that we see today on the square was added in the 18th century. In general, the whole building extends symmetrically around a central atrium. Today, the Palazzo is the main cultural venue of the city. All year, it offers exhibitions, conferences, meetings, festivals, shows, and educational activities.
Chiesa del Gesù
Right next to the Doge’s Palace, dominating the square, is the Chiesa del Gesù (Jesuit church of Genoa). Originally, the church was dedicated to Ambrogio, a Milanese bishop who escaped to Genoa after the Lombard ruler Alboin took over the city. The church was constructed in the 7th century, but its current configuration dates from the 17th century. It was at this time that it emerged as the city’s finest example of Baroque architecture. Furthermore, the interior of the church features many masterpieces and is well worth a visit.
Initially, the Carlone brothers painted the frescoes on the vaults of the church in the 17th century. During this period, many wealthy Genoese families also commissioned altar pieces from renowned European artists. Among them, the Circumcision, painted on the main altar by Pieter Paul Rubens (1605), had a significant impact on local painters due to his innovative use of light and movement. Additionally, Rubens painted the Miracles of Saint Ignatius on the altarpiece located in the left aisle.
We proceed straight ahead on the road after leaving the church to reach Porta Soprana.
Porta Soprana
One of the most impressive and distinctive images of the historic centre of Genoa is undoubtedly the Porta Soprana (or, otherwise, the Porta di Sant’Andrea). The city walls constructed in 1155 included this spectacular gate with its arch and formidable cylindrical towers. These walls were built to protect the city from potential attacks by the infamous Barbarossa, Emperor Frederick I.
An extensive restoration that occurred in the 19th and 20th centuries has freed the gate from several additions made in the past and unveiled its magnificent current form. The scale and skill of the construction astound the tourists, making it one of the most popular tourist attractions.
Just a few metres after passing the gate, we encounter two equally famous sights .
Chiostro di Sant’Andrea
The ruins of the 12th-century monastery bearing the same name, which stood close to Porta Soprana, are known as the Chiostro di Sant’ Andrea (Cloister of St. Andrew). The monastery and the heavily populated neighbourhood that had developed around it were demolished at the beginning of the 20th century. This demolition was part of a large-scale, ambitious project for Genoa’s urban development.
Reportedly, the workers in charge of the project felt bad about destroying something so exquisite. So instead of demolishing the colonnade, they moved it a few metres to its present site. And who could not defend their choice, given the obvious delight and beauty of its design?
Casa di Cristoforo Colombo
According to legend, Christofer Colombus, who was born in Genoa in 1451, grew up in this modest home next to Porta Soprana. But the current Casa di Cristoforo Colombo is only the eighteenth version of the original, which was destroyed during a bombardment by the French.
The reconstruction was based on written documents and descriptions of the locals. Today, it houses a small museum for the great navigator. It displays objects that tell his story and, above all, recount his daily life.
Following Via Dante from this point leads us to the main square of the city.
Piazza de Ferrari
There is little doubt that Piazza de Ferrari is the city’s focal point. It serves as a constant point of reference for walking around the city. Although it was constructed towards the end of the 1800s in an attempt to maintain the greatest possible blend of the old and new city, it quickly became a necessary component of its daily life.
The Felice Theatre and other significant buildings that were already here were included in the design of the square. But also, new, spectacular structures in an eclectic style were constructed all around it. Today, apart from being a traditional gathering spot, the central fountain is also one of the city’s most recognisable icons.
Carruggi of Genoa
Carruggio (which translates to “alley” in English) is most likely derived from the Latin word “quadrivium.” These narrow, winding streets make Genoa one of the most fascinating mediaeval cities in Europe. Carruggi, whose construction once served as a defensive measure, are constantly intersecting and opening out suddenly like a deep cut onto smaller squares. In fact, these winding streets made it impossible for opposing forces to move through. In this way, the Genoese could better protect themselves by setting up ambushes and barricades in areas where it was easy to become confused.
Getting lost in this amazing maze is the best way to explore it. Though you may experience frustration from time to time, you always get to a familiar spot in the end. However, while it’s generally safe to stroll along these narrow alleys, there are a few locations that should be avoided at night.
A necessary addition to the tour of the historic centre of Genoa is a visit to the old port.
Porto Antico
Genoa’s Porto Antico (Old Port) served as both the city’s centre of maritime sovereignty and its main gate for international trade. But as time went on and the new port expanded, the old port began to deteriorate and lose its connection to the rest of the city. But in 1992, the historic harbour would serve as the focal point of the festivities honouring Columbus’ 500th anniversary of discovering America.
Within this framework, the renowned Genoese architect Renzo Piano completed its total renovation and established a new relationship between the port and the city. Thus, he built new monuments like Il Bigo and the Aquarium and renovated old structures like shuttered cotton warehouses. The maritime themes incorporated into the new building’s architecture emphasised the port’s historical significance. The old port is a great area to take a promenade, and at night it becomes even more enchanting. It takes on a captivating, enigmatic, and magical aura.
Pesto and focaccia
Liguria is one of the most important gastronomic destinations in Italy. Many unique products and recipes have their origins in this region. Of these, we will single out two: pesto and focaccia. A visit to Genoa is not complete without trying these two distinct tastes.
In this regard, you can read our two detailed articles:
Of course, the large, striking stores and eateries are not what define the gastronomy of Genoa’s historic centre. Because of its unique architecture, all of its establishments—restaurants, cafes, bakeries, and ice cream shops—are small with just a few tables. The feeling of intimacy in these locations is entirely in line with the genuine essence of the city.
A love letter to Genoa
Genoa is certainly a city worth discovering, and our guide to the historic centre of the famous port city is only an introduction to its hidden merits. It’s no secret that it’s one of our favourite Italian cities. It ranks high on our list of favourite Italian destinations because of its remarkable historical heritage, distinctive historical centre, and delectable cuisine. This was our love letter to Genoa.
