Florina in Western Macedonia, with its charming melancholy and artistic ambience, is a destination in Northern Greece not to be missed.
Florina (Φλώρινα) is one of the northernmost cities in Greece, near the border with North Macedonia and Albania. The geography of its location gives it a special character, as it is a reference point for the low temperatures in Greece in winter. Due to the city’s climate, fog is an important element of its daily life. The weather, the high mountains that surround it, the river that crosses it, and the interwar mansions that adorn its streets give it a particularly melancholic character.
The mornings in Florina, when the sun tries to break through the fog, are like the opening sequence of a melancholic movie. It is no coincidence that Florina provided the setting for many of the films of the most famous Greek director, Theo Angelopoulos (Θεόδωρος Αγγελόπουλος).
But is it like that? Is it a gloomy city? What fascinates its visitors? According to the saying of the folklorist Lazaros Mellios, “In Florina, you cry twice, once when you come and once when you leave”.
A city of arts
The history of Florina is centuries old, and its role is very important for the region. However, the period that undoubtedly stood out was during the liberation struggle for Macedonia, when it was at the centre of developments. Subsequently, during the interwar period, it experienced its greatest flourishing. During this period, its historic centre was formed with its impressive, eclectic, and colourful buildings. Each one of them does not look like the rest but has its own identity. And their intense colours make it seem as if they want to exorcise the gloom of the city.
Somewhere here is where the inseparable relationship between the city and the fine arts begins. The artists who are showcased after 1940 represent the evolution of Florina’s visual arts history. Nonetheless, a number of events that have occurred since the interwar period, including population exchanges with neighbouring nations and the influx of immigrants from Pontos and Asia Minor, gave visual expression a vitality that blended with the regional folk culture, which was mostly embodied by self-taught Florinian painters.
Dimitris Kalamaras, Sterikas Koulis, and Vangelis Baras, among others, are prominent Florinian painters known inside and outside Greece. This tradition continued with the founding of the Museum of Contemporary Art (Μουσείο Σύγχρονης Τέχνης) in 1977 by local artists. Later, another important milestone for the city was the establishment in 2006 of the Department of Visual and Applied Arts at the University of Western Macedonia.
Sakoulevas River
The life of the city revolves around and is determined by the Sakoulevas River (Ποταμός Σακουλέβας) that runs through it. Here are most of the impressive Macedonian, traditional, neoclassical, and eclectic buildings that characterise the city. Among them stands out the impeccably restored building of the 2nd Primary School (2ο Δημοτικό Σχολείο) with intense yellow and red colours. Also on the banks of the river are concentrated many of the city’s cafes, the Metropolitan Church of Agios Panteleimon (Άγιος Παντελεήμων), and the Museum of Contemporary Art.
Beyond the river
This residential complex continues on the streets adjacent to the river, Megalou Alexandrou Street (Μεγάλου Αλεξάνδρου) and Pavlou Mela Street (Παύλου Μελά). In these streets, the old buildings are not all well preserved, but even those, abandoned or not, have their own charm and contribute to the special atmosphere of the city. On Megalou Alexandrou Street, there are also a series of interesting buildings, such as the one of the National Bank (Εθνική Τράπεζα), built in a special Neo-Byzantine style.
Next is Modi Square (Πλατεία Μόδη), where most of the restaurants are located. Nearby is the pedestrian street of Pavlou Mela, which leads to various other scenic, narrow streets. Finally, the 100-year-old municipal market a little further on is the centre of the city’s daily life, and the nearby Stoa Spiraki (Στοά Σπυράκη) is the centre of nightlife.
Finally, we must mention the interesting and impressive Αrchaeological Μuseum of Florina (Αρχαιολογικό Μουσείο Φλώρινας). The museum has been operating since 1956, and it is one of the oldest regional museums in Greece. It gathers archaeological finds from the entire prefecture, from early antiquity to the Byzantine period. Among them, the unique frescoes of the Basilica of Agios Achillios in Mikri Prespa stand out.
Theo Angelopoulos and Florina
The city’s connection to renowned filmmaker Theo Angelopoulos is another aspect of Florina that merits attention. Since 1984, the renowned Greek filmmaker has shot seven of his films in the city and its environs. He thought the city was the ideal backdrop for his films because of its distinct ambience and especially gloomy light.
The Diethnes cafe (Διεθνές) was his favourite spot in Florina; he thought of it as his second home. The cafe and the city are also featured in the 1998 Cannes Film Festival Golden Palm winner, Eternity and a Day. Diethnes (Megalou Alexandrou 78) is still open and is unquestionably one of the city’s most genuine locations, capturing the essence of its identity.
Where to eat
The unique livestock and agricultural production of Florina and the surrounding area is reflected in the local cuisine. There are three places on 25 Martiou Street, where you may savour delicious regional food:
Traditional products
As was already mentioned, there is considerable cattle and agricultural production in Florina and the surrounding area. Among the many products in the region are strawberries and cherries. The flavour and simplicity of cooking make the region’s large Florina beans famous across the globe. Furthermore, numerous kinds of local mushrooms are well-known for their excellence and delectability. Finally, the region’s vineyards are renowned for producing excellent sparkling wines and rose wines.
Still, with their characteristic red colour and cow-horn-like shape, Florina peppers are unquestionably the most well-liked product. In the seventeenth century, the seed was transported from Brazil to the region and planted across Western Macedonia. However, its cultivation proved successful only in Florina, where it adapted to the local soil and climate. Eventually, the other regions ceased to grow pepper, leaving Florina as the only producer. Known for its deep, sweet flavour, Florina pepper is a staple in Greek cooking. It is currently distributed to other countries in a variety of canned versions.
The best place in Florina to try exceptional traditional goods is the Veikos shop (Βέικος) on Modi Square. Sweets, wines, mushrooms, peppers, beans, and the whole range of traditional products of the region are gathered here in excellent quality, neat packaging, and at good prices.
A distant city worth visiting
Melancholic and colourful, artistic and isolated, calm and lively, Florina in Western Macedonia, is a destination that only if you visit it can you understand its uniqueness. Although far from the big urban centres of the country, it is worth every kilometre you will drive to get here. It can also be a base for exploring the entire surrounding area, both inside and outside the borders.
Booking.com
