Trogir in Croatia is undoubtedly the hidden gem of Dalmatian Coast.
Even though cities like Dubrovnik and Split are making the Dalmatian coast and its neighbouring islands a popular tourist destination, there are still lesser-known areas that are worth exploring. One of them is Trogir. With a beautiful historic centre, impressive historical buildings, good restaurants, and interesting nearby destinations, it can be the starting point for unforgettable holidays in Dalmatia.
The history of Trogir
In the third century BC, the Greeks of Issa (now the island of Vis) established themselves on this little island slightly off the coast. Here, they founded the walled town of Tragyrion, which means “island of goats” in Greek. Trogir was a part of the Byzantine Empire during the Middle Ages, but it was destroyed and abandoned by the Saracens in 1123. After 70 years, it came back to life, and there was a significant creative breakthrough. Prior to 1420, it was ruled by the Hungarian kings and then by the Venetians.
Today, Trogir is a popular tourist destination. The historic centre of the city, which has been recognised as a UNESCO monument due to its unique Venetian architecture, during the summer months is a bustling beehive with excellent services. Although the famous neighbouring Split often overshadows Trogir, in recent years it has developed into a significant attraction for Croatian holidaymakers but remains relatively unknown to foreign visitors.
A walk in the Old Town
The best way to get to know Trogir is a relaxing and stress-free stroll through the walled Old Town. Starting from the Land Gate on the north side, we first come across the Stafileo Palace on Subiceva Street. Built in the 15th century with Venetian Gothic elements, it is a typical example of Dalmatian architecture of this period. Continuing, we arrive at the central square, which is the centre of the settlement and hosts the most impressive buildings.
Old Town Square
The Cathedral of St. Lawrence undoubtedly dominates the square. The church with the three floors that we see today was built around 1200 on the ruins of the temple that was destroyed by the Saracens. The central entrance of the church, with the statues of Adam and Eve, is an excellent example of Romanesque art and the work of the sculptor Master Radovan. At the same time, the impressive bell tower of the 14th century dominates the sky of the Old Town.
The Cipiko Palace, with Renaissance characteristics on its front, stands out next to the church. It was the house of the Cipiko family, who ruled the region for three centuries. But without a doubt, the 14th-century Loggia and the Clock Tower are the most distinctive structures in the square. The first one features an interior adorned with distinctive artistic reliefs and a roof supported by six columns with Roman capitals.
The most beautiful building, however, is on the eastern side of the square and is the 15th-century Town Hall. It is an impressive and, at the same time, sophisticated building that seems to have sprung from a fairy tale. The arched windows on the façade and the coats of arms compose a symmetrical and unforgettable image.
From the square starts a dense and labyrinthine network of alleys that leads you to different parts of the town, where you discover other interesting buildings and churches (such as those of St. Nicholas and St. John the Baptist). It’s a journey of discovery since there are surprises and stunning sights around every corner.
Gate to the sea
At the opposite end of the Old Town, you arrive at the Sea Gate. The 15th-century gate features two columns adorned with light-coloured stones, and the Venetian sign of Saint Mark, a lion, looms above it. You emerge from the gate onto the southern waterfront. It is the most exquisite promenade of Trogir because the opulent boats that have anchored at the dock compete with the striking façade of the buildings and portions of the wall for attention.
Kamerlengo Castle
The Kamerlengo Castle is located in the little island’s southwest corner. This was the governor of Venice’s residence. It’s a straightforward construction with a hexagonal foundation and walls on all four sides. There are three towers and a bastion at the fortress. It was once connected to the striking St. Mark’s Tower on the opposite side of the island. This imposing structure protected the slender waterway that connected the island to the mainland.
Trogir at night
Although Trogir is a beautiful city at all hours of the day, at night (especially in summer), it turns into a completely different destination. The alleys acquire an atmosphere of mystery, while the bars and restaurants with their tables on the street interrupt the silence and give the city lively, colourful spots. Don’t be afraid to explore the city at night (it’s absolutely safe) in a game of search between light and shadows. You can easily get the idea that at any moment a Venetian knight or a Renaissance lady can appear in front of you around the next corner.
Rafioli and other Croatian dishes
With a variety of contemporary and traditional eateries offering authentic Croatian food, Trogir is a fascinating culinary destination. First, before you leave Trogir, make sure to sample the local speciality, trogirski rafioli. A lovely legend about the creation of rafioli holds that a lovely young maid named Rafiola was imprisoned in the Trogir Castle. She studied methods for baking and made this delectable local dessert as she waited for her love to save her. Rafioli are formed with a thin, fine dough that is filled with various flavours and ground almonds, then rolled into tiny pastries in the shape of crescents. You can find the best rafioli at Gelateria and Pasticceria Dovani (Gradska 15).
Among the many good restaurants in the city, we would single out Konoba Fortin (Hrvatskih mucenika 25). It is an excellent restaurant with a friendly atmosphere, impeccable service, and a family tradition of many years. Here you will try excellent seafood and fish, traditional Croatian cevapi, but also Zagreb schnitzel, a variant of the Viennese schnitzel made of fine veal stuffed with cheese and ham. And definitely for dessert, don’t forget to order the rozata, the Croatian version of caramel cream.
Day trip to Primosten
Primosten is a lovely village that makes for a fantastic day trip from Trogir. The settlement is situated on one of Dalmatia’s most picturesque peninsulas, about 33 km from Trogir. Primosten used to be located on the islet near the mainland. Walls and towers defended the village against the Turkish invasions in 1542, and a drawbridge linked it to the mainland. The causeway took the place of the drawbridge after the Turks withdrew.
Primosten is well-known for its expansive and exquisite vineyards, which are presently being considered for UNESCO World Heritage status. Raduca, Primosten’s largest beach, and Mala Raduca, a smaller part of the same beach, are ranked among Croatia’s top ten beaches in terms of beauty.
Primosten is a destination that has it all. It is an attractive village with traditional houses and scenic alleys, along with excellent restaurants and stunning beaches. In addition to being the perfect location for a leisurely day by the sea, it is also less congested than other Dalmatian attractions.
A sweet Croatian memory
If you travel to the Dalmatian coast, Trogir is undoubtedly the hidden gem that you must discover. With a long history, excellent amenities, good food, and a vibrant atmosphere, Trogir is sure to become a sweet Croatian memory and one of the highlights of your trip.
During our visit in Trogir we stayed at Apartments More in Seget Donji, a highly recommended accommodation, and travelled with a rental car from discovercars.com.
