Leros is a wonderful and usually overlooked island in the Dodecanese in Greece. It has a long history that starts in prehistoric times and played an important role during World War II. The islands of Dodecanese, apart from Kastellorizo, were occupied by Italy during the Italo-Turkish War of 1912. Italian interest in the islands was rooted in strategic purposes and the intention to expand Italy’s long-range policy.
The islands of Leros and Patmos were used as bases for the Royal Italian Navy. Especially during the 31 years that the Italians remained in Leros, they set up a great plan to transform the island into a fortified military and naval base because of its strategic position and its large natural harbours. The largest of them, Lakki, is one of the largest deepwater harbours in the Mediterranean Sea. The creation of a major base in Leros ensured that the Italians had control over an area of vital interest to the Allies. The area included the Aegean, the Dardanelles, and the Near East. Mussolini called Leros the “Corregidor of the Mediterranean” and considered the island a crucial aspect of the Italian domination.
THE BATTLE OF LEROS
Leros suffered bombing raids by the British air force from 1940 after Italy entered World War II on the side of Germany. On September 8, 1943, Italy signed an armistice and came over to the Allied side. After the armistice, British troops arrived on Leros, and the island suffered continuous German aerial bombings. One of the largest attacks was on the Greek Navy’s flagship, the Vasilissa Olga. The ship was sunk by German bombers on the 26th of September, 1943, along with the British HMS Intrepid. They were both anchored in Lakki Bay. The island of Leros was finally captured by German troops during Operation Taifun between November 12 and 16, 1943. The incident became known as the Battle of Leros. It was a harsh battle and the last victory of the Germans against the Allies. The island remained under German occupation until the end of the war.
THE LEGACY OF THE ITALIANS
The presence of the Italians as well as the legacy of World War II in Leros is evident in an extensive number of buildings, sites, and monuments that are scattered throughout the island. Unfortunately, most of them are not maintained and have been given over to the wear and tear of time. Also, the seabed around the island is scattered with shipwrecks and aeroplanes from the Battle of Leros. Excluding Lakki, which is a special attraction in itself and was built entirely by the Italians as a model city according to the philosophy and aesthetic rules of rationalism (you can read here our article about Lakki), in this article we will focus on six easily accessible locations. They constitute a complete introduction for the visitor to the importance of Leros as a monument of World War II.
WAR MUSEUM
The War Museum of Leros is an excellent way for the visitor to get to know the important war history of the island. It is housed in a restored war tunnel that was built by the Italians. It was part of an extensive network of tunnels and overland defensive positions that had been constructed in the Merikia area for the storage of munitions. In the tunnel fort, a large number of exhibits from World War II are displayed. The exhibits include weapons, maps, photographs, army uniforms, and various other war memorabilia.
The surrounding area has been transformed into a military park, in which decommissioned military vehicles and a fighter aircraft are exhibited. Also inside the museum, visitors can watch an informative video about the Battle of Leros. In general, the space and the exhibits, combined with the sounds from the video of the battle that reverberate inside the tunnel, create an evocative atmosphere and transport the visitor to the war zone of that time.
PARABOLIC ACOUSTIC MIRROR
At the top of Patella Hill, just 5.5 km from the War Museum, stand the ruins of the Italian Air Defence command buildings. Only the final 1.5 km requires extra attention, as visitors can reach it by 4×4, bicycle, or on foot. The hill offered an ideal strategic position overlooking Lakki Bay. Its altitude and terrain also supported military operations and observation. These features led the Italians to choose it as their central Air Defence operations point. The command collected information from the observatories and checked the reported findings. It then ordered the artillery units to open fire.
At the centre of the facility stands the unique Parabolic Acoustic Mirror building. It represents a rare example of a structural aerophone with 360-degree sound reception. The structure consists of three independent parabolic sectors, each with its own listening notch. Each sector focused sound towards the area where the operator stood. The operator listened for the sound of approaching enemy aircraft through this system. The Association Italienne Amis de Leros restored the building in 2016. The association worked with the Municipality of Leros on the restoration.
AGIOS NIKOLAOS RADIO
The Italians had built their Telecommunications Centre in the centre of the island, specifically in the area of Agios Nikolaos, which had earned the nickname Radio. It consisted of a central building and three large antennas. The building, although without any maintenance, still stands in place (although entering it requires attention), as do the three antennas.
The centre used frequencies that allowed communication with Cairo, Italy, and Rhodes. However, these frequencies could not reach the opposite end of Leros. During the Battle of Leros, the island’s five artillery regiments therefore relied on messengers and cannons. Inside the building, visitors can also see an interesting German symbol and inscription. German troops added them to a wall after their victory. The building creates a powerful and evocative atmosphere. You can almost imagine an Italian radio operator or soldier appearing before you at any moment.
APITIKI HILL
During the German invasion, Apitiki Hill witnessed one of the most difficult battles. The hill rises above Platanos, Panteli, and Agia Marina. The Byzantine Castle of Leros stands on one of its two peaks. The Italians built the heavy artillery unit Lago on the other peak during their occupation. The position lies towards Panteli, near the island’s famous windmills. During the Battle of Leros, the German Brandenburg amphibious commando company attacked on the morning of 12 November. After fierce fighting, the commandos captured half of the heavy artillery positions.
The following day, an infantry company reinforced the German forces. Together, they captured the remaining artillery positions. Around 2 a.m. on 14 November, British forces launched a counter-attack to retake Apitiki Hill. However, the Germans mounted a strong defence and stopped the attack. The British eventually retreated after suffering heavy losses. The Greek Army later repaired and used the Italian installation ruins and hilltop observatory. The army eventually abandoned these facilities as well. A dirt road from the Windmills leads easily to the abandoned buildings. A sign also marks the route.
SHIPWRECK OF GERMAN LANDING CRAFT
Leros is not unfairly considered the Μecca of shipwrecks due to the numerous shipwrecks from World War II hidden on its seabed. What in previous decades was a secret among the residents of the island has now attracted the international interest of those involved in diving. As a result of the international interest, a German Junker aircraft was recovered in 2003 and is now on display at the Air Force Museum in Athens.
Today, local divers organise diving trips on the island, but an easily accessible shipwreck at a depth of only 2 to 3 metres can be found in the area of Koulouki in Lakki, specifically on the beach of the Naftikos Omilos Lerou. At a distance of a few metres from the coast (the location is marked with an arrow in the above photo and you can also spot it on Google Maps) and with a simple sea mask, anyone can visit the wreck of a small German landing craft, which was used and probably destroyed during the landing of the Germans on the island.
DESTROYER VASILISSA OLGA
The destroyer Vasilissa Olga was one of the most glorious warships of the Greek Navy. It took part in the Greco-Italian War of 1940–1941, and after the German invasion of Greece, Vasilissa Olga served with the British forces for the rest of its career. The ship moved back to the Eastern Mediterranean in September 1943 to take part in the Dodecanese Campaign. Along with two British destroyers, it helped destroy a small German convoy in the islands before beginning to transport troops and supplies to the small British garrison on the island of Leros. After completing one such mission, it was sunk by German bombers in Lakki harbour on September 26, 1943, with a loss of 72 men.
On the island, there are two places where the visitor can learn about the sinking of the ship, the wreck of which still exists in the centre of Lakki Bay. One point is the monument to Vasilissa Olga in the centre of Lakki, and the other is one of the rooms of the Leros Museum housed in BelenisTower in Alinda. This room exhibits findings from the wreck, personal belongings of sailors, photographs, and other items related to the ship.
A MONUMENT OF WWII
The traces of World War II are still visible on the island, as is the legacy of the Italian conquerors who significantly shaped the island’s physiognomy. However, the island also hides other cultural and natural treasures worth discovering. Byzantine churches, picturesque chapels, beautiful beaches, unique hiking routes, and traditional settlements are just some of the many facets that Leros has to offer.
*Photo at the top is from Leros Museum in Belenis Tower.
*We would like to thank Athina-Dimitra Damiralis for kindly providing the Parabolic Acoustic Mirror photos.
