Iera Odos (Sacred Road) was the ancient route that connected Athens with Eleusis / Elefsina, where people celebrated the famous Eleusinian Mysteries once a year. Their exact nature remains unknown. The Iera Odos stretched for about 22 km, starting at Kerameikos and following, for most of its length, the route of today’s Iera Odos before reaching the Sanctuary of Demeter in Eleusis. Historical evidence suggests that people first used this route during the Late Helladic period (1600–1100 BC) to reach the settlement of Eleusis.
Later, when people began worshipping the goddess Demeter in Eleusis during the 11th century BC, the route gained religious importance. After the Eleusinian Mysteries became officially established in the 8th century BC, the ancient Iera Odos played a central role in the celebrations. A procession of Athenian pilgrims followed the road on their journey to the Sanctuary of Demeter.
The Eleusinian Mysteries
Eleusinian Mysteries were initations held every year for the cult of Demeter and Persephone. They are the most famous of the secret religious rites of ancient Greece. Their basis was an old agrarian cult and represented the myth of the abduction of Persephone from her mother Demeter by the king of the underworld Hades, in a cycle with three phases: the descent, the search and the ascent, with the main theme being the ascent of Persephone and the reunion with her mother.
Those who took part in the Mysteries were called mystes (initiates). Mystes had to follow strict procedures before they could participate. They could enter the Mysteries at least one year after their initial initiation and had to swear an oath of secrecy. The first stage of initiation included the sacrifice of a pig and a purification ritual led by a priest. The mystes also received instruction that helped them understand the Mysteries during the later stages of the initiation. [Visit this link for more information about Eleusinian Mysteries].
In this article, we follow the route of modern Iera Odos and then the Athinon–Korinthou National Road to Elefsis. We explore the visible and easily accessible monuments that have survived along the way. Modern Iera Odos follows the route of the ancient road. Until 1956, it was the only route connecting Athens with the rest of the country. The construction of Athens Avenue and the Athinon–Korinthou National Road changed the route after the area of Daphni. The ancient road passed many sanctuaries, burial grounds, bridges, lakes and rivers. These sites played an important role in the procession of the pilgrims. Many of the monuments also had a strong symbolic meaning.
Iera Pyli (Sacred Gate)
Our tour begins inside the important archaeological site of Kerameikos, the cemetery of Ancient Athens. That was the location of Iera Pyli (Sacred Gate) which marked the beginning of Iera Odos. Next to Iera Pyli was the location of Dipylo, which was the main entrance of the city. All the Athenian participants to Eleusinian Mysteries were gathered outside these gates before the beginning of the procession. [Visit this link for more information about Kerameikos].
A few metres from Kerameikos at the junction of Pireos Street with the modern Iera Odos, about 150 tombs dating from the Archaic years to the 1st century AD have been excavated. Apart from the tombs, a burial monument of the 4th century BC has been located at the site. Essentially the site was an extension of the Kerameikos cemetery along Iera Odos.
Plato’s Olive Tree
We follow Iera Odos and, at number 96, reach the site of Plato’s Olive Tree. The tree marked the boundaries of Elaionas, the sacred olive grove of Ancient Athens. Elaionas probably dates back to the 6th century BC, when Solon introduced laws to protect and cultivate olive trees. The oldest surviving olive tree stood here until the 1970s. People believed it dated from the time of Pericles and named it after the philosopher Plato. A car accident destroyed the tree in the 1970s. The authorities planted another olive tree in its place. Later, they moved the ancient tree’s trunk to the nearby Agricultural University, where it remains in a specially preserved area.
Well of Prophet Daniel
A few hundred metres further on, on the left side of the road and before Eleonas Station, we find a shed protecting ancient remains. Archaeologists discovered them during the extension of the metro line. The site is known as the Well of Prophet Daniel. It forms part of the ancient Iera Odos and includes its retaining wall. The wall went through several construction phases, from the Geometric period to the late Roman period. Archaeologists also discovered objects linked to the worship of Demeter. This discovery suggests that the site may have served as a depository for the Sanctuary of Demeter, Athena and Poseidon. The sanctuary stood in the area and probably served as a stop for pilgrims returning from Eleusis before they entered Athens.
Agios Savvas Agiasmenos
Almost opposite the Well of Prophet Daniel stands the Christian chapel of Agios Savvas Agiasmenos. According to tradition, the Byzantine empress Theodosia built the church in the 9th century AD on the site of an ancient temple, probably the Sanctuary of Demeter, Athena and Poseidon mentioned earlier. Builders incorporated various ancient elements into the chapel, and you can still see some of them in its walls. The chapel also remains the only surviving building from the former district of Agios Savvas, which floods from the nearby River Kifisos destroyed in 1934.
Bridge of Ancient River Kifisos
Continuing our route on Iera Odos, at the location of Elaionas Station, we encounter an excavation that is of particular interest due to the discovery of three impressive stone piers of the Bridge of Ancient River Kifisos, probably of the 4th century BC, along with parts of one of its arches. Testimonies for the use of the bridge are preserved in ancient texts. Specifically on the bridge during the procession, the so-called “gefyrismoi” took place. During gefyrismoi non-participating Athenians gathered near the bridge of Kifisos and waited for the return of the pilgrims. As soon as they saw them, they started cursing vulgarly and gesturing indecently and, in general, doing everything they could to expel those returning from Eleusis. The latter again, who usually turned on carriages and had done their duty to the goddess Demeter, responded with similar insults and gestures.
Agios Georgios Diasoritis
Our next stop takes us to Egaleo, at the junction of Iera Odos and Proussis Street. Here, we find the chapel of Agios Georgios Diasoritis. The church probably dates from the 16th century AD and stands on the site of the Ancient Temple of Kyamitis, although the ancient building materials have disappeared from view. Kyamitis was a well-known hero among the ancient Athenians. According to tradition, he was the first person to cultivate kyamos (broad beans), as the etymology of his name suggests. According to Pausanias, participants in the Mysteries could not eat kyamos. Ancient tradition probably linked this prohibition to the belief that these were the only seeds that the goddess Demeter did not give to humans.
Monuments at Egaleo
After 1 km from the Chapel, the works for the creation of the metro station of Egaleo revealed the best preserved part of the ancient sacred road. At this point we see a section of the ancient Iera Odos that is framed by retaining walls and a cemetery.
A few kilometres from the centre of Egaleo, opposite the entrance of Dromokaitio Psychiatric Hospital, and inside the perimeter of an apartment building, we see the remains of two burial enclosures as well as a pedestal of a burial monument. From the pottery found in the tombs, the cemetery is dated to the end of the 4th century BC.
Monastery of Daphni
Our next stop is the Byzantine Monastery of Daphni in Chaidari, on Athens Avenue (downstream to Athens), which is built on the site of the Sanctuary of Apollo Daphniforos. Its impressive architecture and the special mosaic decoration of the church of the monastery, make it one of the most exceptional monuments of Byzantine art. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1990.
The Sanctuary of Apollo was one of the most important stops along the Eleusinian procession. Inside the sanctuary stood statues of Demeter and Persephone. The sanctuary’s importance also appears in the ancient Theatre of Dionysus in Athens, where they reserved an honorary throne for the priest of Apollo Daphniforos. The temple followed the Ionic style, and builders later used some of its columns in the construction of the Byzantine monastery. Today, only one column remains, while Lord Elgin transported the others to London. The epithet Apollo Daphniforos also survives in the modern name of the area, Daphni.
Sanctuary of Aphrodite
Another important sanctuary we encounter on our way to Eleusis is located on the right side of Athinon – Korinthou National Road as we approach Skaramangas. It is the Sanctuary of Aphrodite. The Sanctuary consists of multiple quadrangular niches that they carved on the rock of the hill on which the ancient temple was built. The purpose of the four-sided recesses was to place votive offerings (tamata) by the pilgrims. Due to the recesses, the area was named by the modern inhabitants “ntoulapakia” (which means lockers) or “parathyrakia” (which means small windows). The main temple in front of the rock was a small square nave with pronaos. It was probably in Doric rhythm and had a marble housing.
This open-air place of worship was one of the stops of the pilgrims who participated in the procession. Filippos Koutsaftis’ 2000 documentary Mourning Rock documents a tradition that continues to this day: young women from the surrounding area would come here, leave offerings in the recesses of the rock, and wish for a good husband. To our great surprise, we found real modern offerings in the rock’s recesses during our visit to the Sanctuary.
Monuments near Lake Koumoundourou
Immediately after the sanctuary of Aphrodite and at the exit of the Νational Road to Piraeus, a large and well-preserved part of Iera Odos has been revealed. According to the archaeologists, the width of the ancient road in the area was on average 5 metres.
The next location we meet on the National Road, at the height of the refineries of Aspropygros, is Lake Koumoundourou. It is the only one that has survived from the two artificial Ancient Lakes of Reiti. The Lakes probably formed in antiquity, perhaps during the Classical period, when the construction of Iera Odos blocked the flow of water from the nearby ancient spring known as Reita to the sea. The ancient inhabitants of Eleusis believed that underground water fed the Lakes from the Euboean Gulf. They therefore considered the Lakes sacred and dedicated them to the goddess Demeter and her daughter Persephone. Only the priests of Eleusis could fish in the Lakes. Today, the Lakes lie within a military zone, and dense vegetation blocks the view from the National Road.
Ancient Bridge of Eleusinian Kifisos
Approaching the modern city of Elefsina the next point of interest we come across is the Ancient Bridge of Eleusinian Kifisos. The river in recent years has been known as Sarantaporos. At this location during the Classical years there must have been another wooden or stone bridge that facilitated the crossing of the river by the pilgrims. The Βridge we see today is the work of the Roman emperor Hadrian, who was initiated in the Eleusinian Mysteries in 124 AD, and during his stay in Greece ordered the construction of the Bridge.
Sanctuary of Eleusis
One kilometre after the Bridge we arrive at the entrance of the Sanctuary of Eleusis. It was one of the most important worship centres of the ancient world, where from the Mycenaean Age to the end of the 4th century AD, the goddess Demeter was constantly worshiped. At the entrance of the archeological site there is still the paved courtyard at which Iera Odos ended.
Also we see the temple of Artemis Propylaea, the Eschara, a Roman fountain and two triumphal arches. Then, we enter the Sanctuary of Demeter from the Great Propylaea, next to which is the Kallichoro Well – the well that Demeter is said to have sat while wandering in search of her daughter. After the Well, we meet the Small Propylaea, next to which there is the Plutonio and finally we reach the Telesterio, the main temple of the goddess. [Visit this link for more information about the arhaeological site of Eleusis]
Following the footsteps of the ancient Athenians
Iera Odos, the sacred road of the ancient Athenians, was part of the ordeal the pilgrims had to endure on their way to Eleusis. The modern route cannot immitate or capture the ambience of the sacred road, but following its route is like taking a tour of the history of Athens. Ancient burial grounds, temples that has been converted into Christian churches, a sanctuary that still receives offerings, ancient bridges, sacred lakes, and all these alongside the modern city. Following the route of Iera Odos is an unshakable proof of the continuous habitation and importance of the city of Athens.
[Photo at the top : A plaque that defines the boundaries of the Iera Odos – Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos. Photo by Marsyas]
