#uniquedestinations
Agia Fotini of Mantineia in Arcadia is undoubtedly the strangest church in the Peloponnese but also in Greece.
The region of Mantineia (Μαντίνεια) in Arcadia (Αρκαδία), a verdant location with striking vineyards, is only 15 km from Tripolis’ (Τρίπολη) centre. It is easily accessible by way of the route that leads to Levidi (Λεβίδι) and Vytina (Βυτίνα). The magnificent church of Agia Fotini/Saint Fotini (Αγία Φωτεινή) is located in the middle of this region, just adjacent to the Ancient Mantineia archaeological site.
If you’re in the region, you should definitely check out this genuinely one-of-a-kind piece of art.
Mantineia Region
One of the Peloponnese’s ancient cities, Mantineia is reputed to have been the birthplace and childhood abode of the ancient god Poseidon. Its location is in close proximity to the later Sanctuary of Hippolytus Poseidon. With its capital situated on Ptolemy’s acropolis, Mantineia was once a confederation of five cities that participated in the Trojan War. Mantineia was also important in the Peloponnesian War because it was the site of the first major battle between Sparta, Athens, and their allies in 418 BC.
With a last flourish under Roman Emperor Hadrian, the city’s influence persisted in succeeding years. In addition to restoring the temple of Hippolytus and constructing a huge temple for his beloved Antinous, Hadrian also constructed new structures across the city.
Finally, due to the Moschofilero grape that is cultivated here, Mantineia nowadays produces a red wine with a protected designation of origin, making it one of Greece’s top wine-producing regions.
The story of the church
The church belongs to the Mantinean Association, which was established in 1934 by residents of the surrounding areas. Until 1951, the Association used the Church of the Theotokos, located on the hill of the village of Gortsouli. However, after this church was incorporated into the parish of Agios Georgios Pikerni, the Association decided to build a new church in the area.
The decision was made in 1965 on the day of the feast of Saint Fotini, thus giving the church its name. The project of designing and constructing the church was assigned to the architect and iconographer Kostas Papatheodorou. Subsequently, the construction began in 1969 and was completed in 1978.
The architect Costas Papatheodorou
Architect Costas Papatheodorou was born in 1937 in Arcadia and studied architecture in Aachen, Germany. He was a student of Dimitris Pikionis and Yannis Tsarouchis. Philosophy and art have influenced all his works. At the same time, his philhellene European professors, who were admirers of ancient Greek culture, had a great impact on his way of approaching architecture.
Papatheodorou’s philosophy in architecture is a synthesis of Ancient Greece, Byzantium, and European trends. He describes it as “philosophical architecture.”. The goal of his architecture is to combine the material with the spiritual in order to create in man a spiritual uplift that will lead him closer to the divine.
The construction of the church
The ancient rules of static art form the foundation of the entire church, which is built on levels that seem to overlap. The upper end of the church resembles a pediment. However, at the same time, it seems to sink like the poor huts of Mantineia. Certain parts of the church, such as the columns, have been sculpted in a way that creates the illusion that they were once made of wood and then replaced by marble, just as happened with churches in antiquity.
The church is three stories high, with three sanctuaries. The northern one is dedicated to Saint Kosmas the Aetolian, the southern one to Saint Philip the Apostle, and the central one to Saint Fotini. Narrow passageways on either side lead to the central nave. These passageways represent the Roman catacombs where Saint Fotini perished.
Old quarries, shale, and other resources were exploited to supply the building material. The bricks were rolled to fit and were handmade from Tripolis. The iconography and mosaics were also done by the architect. These are also of particular interest because they do not follow the usual canons of iconography. The Saints and other figures are depicted with everyday human forms.
The Heroon and the Well
In addition to the main temple, in the courtyard of the church there are two more structures. The Heroon, in honour of all those who fought for the homeland, and the Jacob’s Well, which symbolises the meeting of Jesus with the Samaritan woman. The first was built in 1976 and the second in 1980.
It is obvious that these two buildings follow the same philosophy, but they are slightly different from the church. This is because they are constructed mainly of marble, serving certainly different symbolic purposes. As structures, however, they are in dialogue with the main church building without overshadowing it.
A truly unique experience
A visit to Agia Fotini is a unique, transcendental experience. The combination of different styles and techniques from different time periods gives the church an absolutely timeless character. The church is impressive but at the same time humble, as if it is bowing to the ruins of the neighbouring ancient city but also to the majesty of the nature that surrounds it. Inside, the spaces are narrow with several low passages, resulting in a devout and mystical atmosphere. At the same time, the dim light creates intense shadows, and the church seems to embrace you like a sacred cave.
Many will say that the church is strange and does not conform to the standards of the Orthodox church. However, no one can deny that it has a character that you don’t find in any other monument. It is an ideal blend of religious devotion, admiration for ancient Greek art, and respect for local traditions.
