Autumn has arrived, and now is the ideal time to visit the Greek mountains. The colours are stunning, and nature is preparing for the arrival of winter. In this article we are going to make a one-day road trip to Elati, Pertouli and the surrounding area on Mount Koziakas. We’ve chosen Trikala as our beginning and finishing location, and we’ll try to show you this one-of-a-kind place that some call the “Greek Alps”. The trip is 160 kilometres long and may easily be completed in one day.
Pyli Bridge
We begin our journey in Trikala and arrive at the stone Pyli Bridge after 22 kilometres. The village of Pyli has served as the gateway to the shortest route between Thessalia and Epirus. The village’s significance stretches back to ancient Greek and Roman periods, when it served as an important trading post. It maintained its importance until the mid-twentieth century, when it became a thriving and densely populated village. The iconic stone Pyli Bridge is one of Greece’s most notable stone arch bridges, and until 1936, it was the only way to get to Epirus from Trikala. It was constructed in 1514 under the direction of Saint Vissarionas, hence it is also known as Saint Vissarionas’ Bridge. The area around the bridge is very nicely arranged and ideal for relaxing under the big plane trees.
Elati
We continue our trip, and after just 13 km, we make our next stop at the well-known Elati. Built 938 meters above sea level, this is the biggest village in the area. It has developed touristically since the 1950s, and you could find here many hotels, guest houses, restaurants, cafes, and shops. The village retains its authentic atmosphere and is a welcoming place.
The place is perfect for walking in its cobbled streets and shopping for various local products. On the mountain above the village, you will see the Red Rock, a huge red rock formation, which almost hangs above the village and is quite spectacular.
Pertouliotika
A few kilometres after Elati, we reach a mountain plateau with green meadows, known as Pertouliotika. A wonderful place, where you can admire nature in all its glory. With a huge variety of trees and plants, with acres of natural green grass, with small water streams and ponds, and with birds and other small wild animals, this is a place you are never going to forget. If you are a ski fan, during the winter months and according to the weather conditions, a small ski resort operates in Pertouliotika (more information about the ski resort can be found here). Also here, there are two locations on the road where you can hire a horse and ride in the meadows.
Pertouli
Finally, 16 km after Elati and after crossing the meadows, we arrive at Pertouli, the next stop of our trip. Pertouli is a picturesque village, built on a slope with a fantastic view of the surrounding mountains. The village in the course of time has been destroyed many times. The last one was in 1943 when the Nazis burnt it to the ground.
After the war, the inhabitants built again the village and were involved in lumbering. At the center of the village, we see the imposing Archontiko Chatzigaki. It is a magnificent tower built in 1890 by Swiss architects for Chatzigaki family. It had hosted many politicians, members of royal families and other famous personalities until its destruction in 1943. Nowadays they have restored it and operates as a hotel. Apart from Archontiko Chatzidaki, Pertouli has other guesthouses and restaurants. It is a perfect place for a weekend in the mountains.
Neraidochori and Agia Paraskevi
We continue our trip, and after 4 km we cross another wonderful village, Neraidochori (which means the village of the fairies), built under the mountain peak Neraida at the center of a fir forest. Another 2 km up the road we meet the unique church of Agia Paraskevi, which is our next stop. The church of Agia Paraskevi is the only remnant of the monastery by the same name, established in 1792. Tradition holds that the hollow dome of the church served as shelter and, during the Ottoman rule, functioned as a secret school. There is a resting area around the church that offers a magnificent view and also a spring of freshwater.
Tripotama
Leaving Agia Paraskevi, our journey takes a new turn as we begin to descend the mountain, and after a few kilometers the road follows the banks of the Acheloos River. After a total of 30 km, we finally arrive at the next stop of our trip, a place called Tripotama. Here a smaller river, Skliniasotiko Rema, meets the Acheloos River. The confluence of the rivers gives the impression that three rivers are meeting at this point, and this is why it is called Tripotama, which means “three rivers.” It is a place of unique natural beauty, deep in the mountains of Central Greece.
Katouna Bridge
From this point, we follow the signs for Kalambaka, and after 6 km, we turn right at the sign for the village Krania and make here the first small detour. After just 1 km we see the village hidden in a dense forest of firs and beech trees and admire the traditional architecture of the well-preserved houses. At the entrance of the village, we stop to visit and actually cross on foot the scenic stone Katouna Bridge, built between 1860 and 1870 and a representative sample of traditional bridge construction.
Iera Moni Timiou Stavrou
We return to the main road and continue our trip towards Kalambaka. Less than a kilometre ahead we see a small sign for Iera Moni (Monastery) Timiou Stavrou, and we turn right. At this point, we make our second and last detour to visit this exceptional building. None of the geographers and travellers of the 18th and 19th centuries, who visited the area, referred to the monastery. The only written documents related to the place have been found in the archives of a monastery at Meteora, and they give information about the renovation of the church in 1839.
The monastery was abandoned in 1924, but the last monk left the place in 1943 when the Nazis destroyed it, and the only thing that survived was the church (the remains of the rest of the monastery could be seen a few metres from here). The archaeologists are not conclusive about the year of its construction, but according to the architectural style, they place it around 1770. The style of the church with 12 domes, very small windows which barely let the natural light enter inside and the whole setup of the interior with no wall paintings classify it as a very rare monument. The church is open from April to October if you want to see the interior (more information could be found here).
Returning back to Trikala
From this point, there are two ways to continue the trip and return to our starting point. We either return back from the same road (90 km), or we continue towards Kalambaka, with the final destination the city of Trikala (70 km). If we choose the second option, we will come across a few more characteristic and authentic villages like Amaranto and Kastania.
Where to eat
If during this long road trip you want to visit a restaurant, the choices are many, and every village has a tavern or a restaurant with traditional cuisine. During our two excursions in the area (during autumn and winter), the places we visited and can certainly suggest are Panseloinos and Papanastasiou in Elati (for traditional dishes with a modern touch), Anogi on the road to Pertouli (for grilled meat and local dishes), Niavis in Neraidochori (for grilled meat), and La Korno in Krania (a family-run tavern with local cuisine).
One visit is never enough
Scenic villages, rivers, stone bridges, towers, churches, destroyed monasteries, meadows, forests, and most important of all, nature in all its glory, are what you are going to see during this trip. This is really a blessed place. In our description, we referred only to the highlights of the trip and tried not to make long detours. The area has much more to offer, and one visit here is never enough. You could come here during spring, autumn, or winter, and each time would be different. Stay in one of the villages or in Trikala and indulge in the magic of this part of Greece. We offered you the basic guidelines, and it is up to you to discover even more.
Here you can find a map of our journey
*[Katouna Bridge photo is from the site www.krania.gr]
