Gjirokaster (Gjirokastra in Albanian) is undoubtedly the most beautiful town in Albania and a UNESCO heritage town you can’t miss.
The city is perched on a hillside between the valley of the Drino River and a striking castle. The townhouses are a sight to behold, with their stark white walls and grey tile roofs. With an amazing history and heritage, it is one of the top travel attractions in Albania and the Balkans.
Gjirokaster today consists of the old town that spreads out on the hill below the castle, while the newly built new part is located at the foot of the hill. A visit to the city should focus on the two central neighbourhoods of the old city, Bazaar and Hazmurat, and the impressive castle.
The City of Stone
Gjirokaster has a long and complex history that reflects its role as a hub of the development and the fate of the Balkan countries. The first historical reference to the city dates back to the 14th century, when it was still a part of the Byzantine Empire. It became an important centre of commerce and government after the Ottomans seized it over in the 15th century. Its sovereignty changed many times between Turks, Italians, Greeks, and Albanians until it was formally obtained by the Albanian state. As part of Albania, it has played a significant role in its affairs in both communist and recent history.
The two most famous sons of the city are Enver Hoxha, who ruled Albania from 1944 until his death in 1985, and Ismail Kadare, who is the most famous Albanian writer outside the country. As early as 1961, the Albanian government had declared Gjirokaster a preserved settlement. This resulted in the preservation of the traditional settlement. The same thing did not happen to other cities and villages in Albania where the reckless development destroyed the traditional buildings. In 2005, Gjirokaster became a UNESCO monument. The unique architecture of the city’s stone buildings has always impressed visitors, who gave it the nickname ‘city of stone’.
The following are the best things to do for an unforgettable visit in the old city of Gjirokaster:
Wander in the Old Bazaar
Undoubtedly the top attraction of the city is the Old Bazaar (Pazar i Vjetër). You should not miss the wonderful experience of taking a stroll on its cobblestones. However, you ought to put your clock aside and let it work its magic. The bazaar was created in the 17th century, when the city had over 2000 houses. Unfortunately, fire destroyed most of the original bazaar. Today, the majority of the buildings we see were built in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
During the city’s heyday, traders came from all over the Balkans to buy products by the city’s artisans, farmers, and livestock breeders. The city was home to significant workshops that produced textiles, ceramics, and local products. Even though the shops nowadays primarily serve tourists, small family-run enterprises continue to produce traditional goods. In order to meet the demands of tourists, there are nowadays a lot of restaurants (serving various cuisines), cafes, and pubs in addition to stores selling souvenirs, local goods, and tourist gear.
Admire the traditional houses
The wonderful traditional structures are the first thing you should notice when strolling around the Bazaar and the adjacent neighbourhood of Hazmurat at a lower level of the hill. No two homes are quite the same. The bottom floors of the houses have a characteristic defensive architecture. The wooden doors include intricate carvings and arches made of stone. The dwelling quarters were on the higher stories, with the lowest floor serving as storage. The quantity of floors, windows, and chimneys served as a status symbol and revealed the owner’s level of affluence.
Although the majority of the houses are private, it is worthwhile to visit one of those that are accessible to the public in order to admire the interior design, which represented not only the owners’ financial situation but also his cultural background. Three houses that are open to the public (on certain hours and with an admission fee) and are characteristic examples of the local architecture are: the Kadare House, which is the house where the famous writer was born; the Ethnographic Museum, which is on the site of the house where Enver Hoxha was born; and the Skenduli House, built originally in 1700 and rebuilt in 1827.
Visit the Bazaar Mosque
The heart of the bazaar is not far from the 17th-century Bazaar Mosque (Xhamia e Pazarit). In the octagonal edifice on the west side, the devout ritually wash their hands and feet before entering. Women are required by religious tradition to have their own entrance and to pray apart from men. In the past, merchants who paid the mosque rent occupied the ground floor.
Out of the thirteen mosques that had survived until the 1960s, the Bazaar Mosque was the only one that remained intact since it was designated as a cultural monument. Nevertheless, during the communist era, the mosque served as a training ground for circus performers, who suspended their trapezes from the tall domed ceilings. Although it is available to the public, the mosque is once again in use as a place of worship today. There is free admission, but the guests have to respect the site’s holiness.
Take in the view
If you really want to enjoy a breathtaking view, you should look for the Obelisk, which dominates the highest point of the settlement. But it takes some searching to get to the point. You have to proceed to the Irish Pub Gallery, where on its left side there’s a doorway with a steep staircase. To locate the Obelisk, follow the stairs. The view from here to the impressive buildings, the castle, the mosque, and the river valley makes you understand the greatness and beauty of the city as well as the wisdom of its construction.
The “Motherland ABC” Οbelisk, as it was officially named, was built to honour the Albanian language. It also serves as a symbol of education in the country. The monument is seven meters high and made of hewn stone. The former Liria School, which was established in 1908 as the first Albanian school in Gjirokaster, is located on the same hill close to the Obelisk. Teachers at the time faced great danger as Albanian students were forbidden from using their native language in schools during the Ottoman era.
Explore the Castle
The Gjirokaster Castle on the top of the hill is a striking landmark with an unrestricted view of the surroundings. In the whole Balkan region, it is the second-largest fortification. According to archaeologists, the hill was first occupied in the 4th or 5th century AD. However, the earliest walls were constructed in the 12th or 13th century, after Hadrianopolis fell and more people had come to the settlement. When the Ottomans took control of the castle later in the 15th century, they rebuilt it, expanded it to its present size, and added the famous clock tower. Finally, during the communist era, the castle became a prison.
There is also a lengthy exhibit in the castle’s catacombs that showcases several artillery weapons reminders of World War II and consists of the National Museum of Armaments. The Gjirokaster Museum, which features historical and archaeological artefacts, is also housed in the castle. Lastly, there’s a former jail that saw heavy use during the communist era as a place to hold political prisoners. The castle is open certain hours and with an admission fee.
Buy local products
With a long history of local makers and merchants, Gjirokaster offers a variety of goods that are well worth exploring and purchasing. A number of traditional family workshops operate across the city, producing goods and selling them at the bazaar. The most significant of these are the traditional textiles, which highlight the city’s extensive weaving heritage. Numerous patterns, motifs, and natural themes can be seen on the fabrics. These textiles capture the beauty of the region and incorporate all the traditional values of its people.
Ceramics is a further noteworthy category. These are handcrafted and have bright, cheery paints. They are intended to enhance the aesthetics of the home that purchases them and have both functional and decorative qualities. However, we should also mention that the exquisitely designed and expertly crafted handcrafted filigree jewellery dazzles with its elegance and sophistication.
Try traditional oshaf
If there is a traditional dish that you must try if you come to Gjirokaster, it is oshaf. It is a dessert that is made exclusively here and is based on the products and the culinary tradition of the region. It is a delicious cream made with sheep’s milk, sugar, and dried figs. The oshaf is sprinkled with cinnamon, and ground cloves provide an unforgettable taste. It is a well-balanced dessert in which the figs add the necessary sweetness without being overwhelming. Although you can find it as dessert in various shops, at the small shop Gliko on the main street of the bazaar, you can try a perfect version that you can enjoy as you walk through the bazaar.
A genuine Balkan gem
In an up-and-coming Balkan tourist destination like Albania, Gjirokaster is the jewel in the crown. It is the best preserved traditional settlement in Albania and one of the most important in the Balkans. It is a city with a long history, strong traditions, and rich cultural heritage. The visitor can admire the impressive buildings, the colourful bazaar, the elaborate handicrafts, and the excellent culinary experiences. Gjirokaster is an unknown and genuine gem of the Balkans that you must discover.
