Beyond Grand Place and waffles: The real Brussels you need to see

Beyond Grand Place and waffles, the real Brussels you need to see is located not far from the city core. However, it is essential if you want to understand the true identity of the city. There, you can experience the authentic spirit of Brussels, where hidden gems await around every corner.

Stepping past the postcards

Brussels, Belgium’s capital and the hub of the European Union, welcomes visitors with a sense of grandeur and charm. Most visitors are immediately fascinated by the golden facades of the Grand Place, one of Europe’s most beautiful squares, and are unable to resist taking a photo with the world-famous Manneken Pis. And, of course, no visit is complete without trying a warm, freshly baked waffle, the city’s tastiest symbol of indulgence.

But Brussels has a different rhythm—quieter, more inventive, and immensely more local. Away from the photo stops and souvenir shops, the city exposes a tapestry of art, gastronomy, and charm that seems authentic and alive. This is Brussels, favoured by locals, and the one you will remember the most.

The art and spirit of comics

The city is essentially an open-air museum of illustrated walls, with Tintin near Manneken Pis, Lucky Luke, Asterix, Gaston Lagaffe, and contemporary Belgian artists hiding in side streets. Taking the Comic Strip Route is one of the best ways to experience the city off the usual route. Each mural tells a story about Belgium’s humour identity and culture, which is sometimes funny, weird, and often self-deprecating. It’s public art, painted on the city walls.

For a deeper dig, visit the Comic Art Museum, which is housed in a beautiful Art Nouveau edifice created by Victor Horta. Inside, the colourful exhibits demonstrate how deeply comics are embedded in the Belgian mentality. In addition, the museum provides insight into how this art is made and brought to life.

Mont des Arts and the Cathedral: A cultural climb

Take an easy walk from the city centre to Mont des Arts, one of Brussels’ most attractive vistas. The terraced gardens here are like a painting, with statues, fountains, and the skyline’s pointed spires. It is where locals go to breathe – students painting, street musicians playing, office workers chatting, and tourists silently falling in love with the scenery.

A few metres away, the Magritte Museum welcomes you into René Magritte’s bizarre world. His bowler hats, floating apples, and clouds provide a glimpse into the Belgian soul: whimsical, cerebral, and a touch mysterious. The museum has the largest collection of his works in the world. Although the collection does not include any of his most famous works, it offers an excellent opportunity to learn about this world-renowned Belgian visionary.

Before moving on, pause at the Cathedral of St Michael and St Gudula, one of Brussels’ most striking Gothic landmarks. People who are hurrying between sites frequently miss this monument. Its origins can be traced back to a modest Romanesque church that stood on this very hill in the eleventh century. It was enlarged and changed over the ensuing decades to become the magnificent Gothic cathedral you see today, with its twin towers built in the fifteenth century to take centre stage in the city skyline. Inside, bright 16th-century stained-glass windows let in an abundance of light.

Gilded galleries and hidden bookshops

Once you’re back in the city centre, wander leisurely through the Royal Galleries of Saint Hubert. It is one of the most exquisite and old covered arcades in Europe. This glass and iron marvel, which opened in 1847, had the purpose of being a place where everyday life, architecture, and light all coexist harmoniously. The shop windows beckon with Belgian pralines, lace, exquisite coffee, and artwork. At the same time, the vaulted dome casts a gentle glow over the marble floors and gilded arches.

The charming Tropismes, a literary sanctuary that transports you to another period, is tucked away within the gallery. One of Europe’s most beautiful bookshops, it was formerly a ballroom with mirrored walls, tall columns, and golden ceilings. It’s the perfect place to purchase new editions of well-known comic strips and French literature.

Just a short distance away lies an entirely different realm: Galerie Bortier. Up until 2024, this narrow passageway was home to dealers of art prints and antique books. After that, the gallery underwent controversial renovations to become a “gastronomic gallery” with cafes and restaurants, and only three of the vintage bookshops remain. It still has a certain old charm and atmosphere, nevertheless.

Saint-Catherine: Where the old harbour meets modern flavour

If Mont des Arts is all grandeur, the Saint-Catherine neighbourhood is all atmosphere. It was once the city’s historic harbour. But it is today a thriving area with restaurants and cafes spilling out into cobblestoned squares. The district retains vestiges of its marine past, as seen by street names and the salty air emanating from seafood eateries. Saint Catherine’s Church dominates the border of the neighbourhood’s main square, its light stone facade rising gently above it. It was built in the nineteenth century on the site of an older mediaeval church. It serves as a tranquil anchor in the bustling neighbourhood.

One of the few remaining pieces of Brussels’ 13th-century city walls is the Black Tower (Tour Noire). It is located directly behind the church and provides a sense of mystery. This sturdy mediaeval tower, nestled between contemporary structures, serves as a reminder of how much the city has changed over time. Saint-Catherine is a great representation of Brussels’ blend of modern ingenuity and old soul. Here history endures, but life never stops.

Finally, as a representative of the district’s seafood restaurants, Noordzee-Mer du Nord (Rue Sainte-Catherine 45) is the perfect spot to savour fried calamari or prawn croquettes with a glass of crisp white wine.

Hidden Street: Rue se la Cigogne

Rue de la Cigogne, a little mediaeval alley and one of the few surviving relics of the city’s distant past. It is a step into the heart of hidden old Brussels, not far from Saint Catherine’s main square.

You enter a subtly magical world through an 18th-century stone gate topped by a little chapel devoted to St Roch. Bicycles casually rest against the old facades, potted plants pour onto doorsteps, and wisteria climbs the walls of the once humble worker’s dwellings. Today, locals have turned the road into an urban refuge. Even though Brussels’ wide avenues are just a short distance away, this place has a completely other vibe that is serene and exquisitely out of time.

A local bite: Fries and sandwiches done right

A cone of golden fries rounds out any day in Brussels, but it’s worth skipping the obvious tourist spots. Instead, stop at Frit Flagey on Place Flagey, where the enormous lines of locals speak for themselves: hot, crispy, double-fried perfection served in a paper cone. Maison Antoine, which serves fries that are essentially a rite of passage, has long been a local institution on Place Jourdan. Last but not least, Fritland beside the Bourse remains a timeless favourite, ideal for a late-night snack after seeing the city. Enjoy them standing at the counter or on a nearby bench, topped with the locals’ preferred sauces, samourai or andalouse.

Brussels’ sandwich culture is equally satisfying if you’re in the mood for something heartier. With ingredients like roast ham, creamy cheese spreads and grey prawn salad, Pistolet Original on Rue Joseph Stevens 26, Belgium, transforms the simple roll into a gourmet treat. The pistolet is a traditional Belgian bread, characterised by its small, round shape. It features a hard, crispy crust that contrasts with the soft texture of the roll’s interior. Also, head to one of the JeanBon cafes, popular with both students and office workers, for deliciously filling, freshly made sandwiches if you prefer something simpler yet equally satisfying.

Closing reflections: The real Brussels

It is not a city that yells; rather, it invites you to slow down and look closely. Under its weird humour and political pulse is a gentle warmth that rewards those who deviate from the conventional route. Brussels exposes itself in the slightest touches – a comic mural tucked around a corner, laughter echoing over cobblestones, the calm of a lane most visitors never find.

So, beyond the Grand Place’s brightness, ascend Mont des Arts, appreciate the comic walls that transform streets into stories, and stroll down Rue de la Cigogne. Beyond the postcards, Brussels is more than simply a destination; it’s a discovery waiting to happen.