Kardamyli (Καρδαμύλη) and Stoupa (Στούπα) in Western Mani are the perfect summer escape in Peloponnese. Western Mani is a unique destination greener than the rest of Mani, with picturesque villages and some of the best beaches in the Peloponnese. It is an ideal destination both for those looking for tranquilly and for those looking for more lively places to spend their holidays. Also here you can enjoy the culinary tradition of Mani and taste the excellent local products.
Kardamyli: A place of tranquilly
In the midst of a verdant landscape with vines, jasmine, and flowers in the gardens, the stone-built village of Kardamyli stands out between the mountain and the sea. In a unique scenery of calm and relaxation, Kardamyli always fascinates its visitors, Greeks and foreigners.
Starting from the side of the mountain in the neighbourhood of Old Kardamyli (Παλιά Καρδαμύλη), the visitor can tour the districts of Mourtzinon (Μούρτζινων) and Troupakidon (Τρουπάκηδων) and admire the traditional towers of Mani, while the church of Agios Spyridon (Άγιος Σπυρίδων) stands tall between the towers. From the old settlement, a paved street leads to Oikismos (Οικισμός), a neighbourhood that is located above the main road and is the heart of Kardamyli.
The principal rural road, known as Agora (Αγορά), passes the village and serves as a point of reference for everyone. At Agora are the village’s stores, which is a frequent stop for people travelling south of Mani. From there, a network of paved lanes winding between striking two-story homes covered in bougainvillaea leads to the sea and the old port of Kardamyli, where the charming old customs house (which has undergone renovations) is located. Kardamyli is a serene haven and the perfect spot for unwinding and creating lifelong memories.
Stoupa: Dynamic vibes by the sea
In the foothills of Taygetos, surrounded by olive groves and between two beautiful sandy beaches, Stoupa is the most developed village in the area. It is a new settlement founded by the residents of the neighbouring village of Lefktro (Λεύκτρο). What Stoupa lacks in traditional colour, it makes up for with its tourist infrastructure and vibrancy. The beach and its shops are full and lively at all hours of the day. For any taste, there are many different hotels, guest homes, and rental rooms available here, so you can have a cosy and enjoyable stay. Many taverns and restaurants are also available for you to try, where you can sample the delectable local cuisine. There are a lot of cafes along the village’s beach road, which transform into bars at night so you can enjoy your drink.
Stoupa was also home to Nikos Kazantzakis and Alexis Zorbas for a certain period. They met here while working in the Prastova mines in Neo Proastio, which are now closed. Inspired by this, the renowned author penned the singular masterpiece “Zorba the Greek.” In honour of the book, on a wall near Kalogria Beach, the well-known artist Skitsofrenis has created an exceptional mural about Kazantzakis and Zorbas.
Kalogria and Foneas: Two unforgettable beaches
Foneas Beach (Φονέας) is located four kilometres from Kardamyli on the road to Stoupa. It is a pebbly beach with green waters in the centre of which a steep rock dominates. According to the legend, the name of the beach (foneas means killer in Greek) was due to a pirate who was shipwrecked here. To survive, he killed passersby to rob them. When he managed to repair his ship, he set sail again, leaving a grim legacy to the name. Today the beach, which is surrounded by greenery and has a beach bar, gives unforgettable moments to its visitors. [Also photo at the top]
Only a few hundred metres separate the expansive sandy Kalogria Beach (Καλογριά) from the heart of Stoupa. The sea here has a clear blue-green colour. Because Nikos Kazantzakis and Alexis Zorbas resided there, it is also known as Zorbas Beach. It is among Messinia’s most well-known and stunning beaches. It’s a well-manicured beach with sun loungers and umbrellas that gets a lot of traffic in the summer. You can enjoy water sports, have coffee or drink at one of the nearby beach bars, and take in the distinctive sunset from this location. An interesting detail is that on the rocks at the edge of the beach, a source of fresh water springs up, making the water of the beach quite cold in places.
Agios Nikolaos: A hidden gem of Mani
Just a few kilometres from Stoupa is Agios Nikolaos (Άγιος Νικόλαος). It is a picturesque fishing village with distinctive traditional architecture. It was settled at the end of the 19th century in a lowland area next to the sea. According to the legend, Paris landed on the beach of the area and grabbed Helen the Beautiful before departing for Troy.
Although in recent years it has developed touristically, it continues to stay a hidden gem of Mani and a quiet destination for those who do not want the intense atmosphere of the Stupa. In its picturesque port, you will try excellent fish dishes in the taverns, while around there are some small beaches worth discovering.
Katafygi Cave: A masterpiece of nature
Not far from Agios Nikolaos, there is a place where nature has created something beyond human imagination. It is the Katafigi Cave (Σπήλαιο Καταφύγι), which is easily accessible from a path that starts from the country road. Big flat rocks, which resemble man-carved works, evoke the impression of an ancient temple.
At the back of the rocks begins a cave, one of the largest in the Peloponnese, in which traces of human presence from prehistoric times have been found. The waters of the sea have a deep blue colour and challenge you to dive (although diving from the these rocks is only for the most daring).
The gastronomic marvels of the area
The land of Mani has to offer many culinary treasures. Of course, the main product of this wild but also beautiful area is olive oil and olives. But also the salted pork named sygklino (σύγκλινο), traditional pies, fried dough, and very good honey are some of the products you must try. At the bakery of Balahtaris (Μπαλαχτάρης) in Stoupa, you will try excellent pies and also the most well-fried and light lalagia (λαλάγγια). Lalagia, or Mani pancakes, are a traditional recipe of the prefectures of Messinia and Laconia. Specifically, they are fried, crispy, and prepared from flour and oil. In most cases, they are accompanied with cheese or, on the contrary, with honey.
But also in the restaurants of the area, you will try traditional recipes as well as excellent modern gastronomy. The Dioskouroi Restaurant in Kardamyli, with an amazing view, is a very good choice to try local dishes. On the other hand, the Stoupa Restaurant, in a strategic position at the edge of the village’s beach, offers modern, creative Greek cuisine. Here you will try imaginative versions of well-known Greek dishes that will pleasantly surprise you. Finally, a stop for ice cream at Lola in Kardamyli is almost mandatory.
An ideal combination
Kardamili and Stoupa are quite different, but together they form an ideal combination for a summer getaway in the Peloponnese. It is an unforgettable combination of greenery, sea, and the wild beauty of stone. At the same time, they have all the necessary structures and services to satisfy every need and make your holidays unforgettable.
During our visit in Kardamyli and Stoupa, we stayed at Angela Studios, a highly recommended accommodation, and travelled with a rental car from discovercars.com.
